Cheese of the Week No. 9

It's all about not-brie this week. Brie is everywhere, and almost everybody knows it. It's a soft-ripened, unpressed curd, young cheese from France with a tangy, slightly bitter rind and interior paste that ranges from rubbery to runny depending on quality and runniness. Unfortunately for us, we can't get the great raw milk brie, and while the pasteurized stuff we have is still wonderful cheese, I'm going to give you a few tastier alternatives to try.

Chaource: pasteurized (in U.S.) cow's milk, France (Champagne). Also a bloomy rinded soft ripened cheese like brie, but fashioned into a stout drum rather than a pie. About 4 inches tall and just over 3 inches in diameter, chaource has a much tangier and fruitier flavor than brie, and when it's at its peak ripeness, it's a real treat. Cut a hole through the top of the rind and spoon out the runny paste onto sliced baguette or crackers. Enjoy with Champagne or dry, fruity whites and very light reds.

Robiola Due Latti: pasteurized cow's and sheep's milk, Italy. Depending on its ripeness, robiola can be sliced or spooned. In either case, it's delicious, tangy, fruity, and comes on with a strong cheesey aftertaste that goes through the nose as you exhale. As a washed rind cheese, it packs a powerful aromatic punch, but don't let it deter you from trying this delicious square of creamy goodness with bread, fruit and a bold red.

Alsatian Munster: pasteurized (in U.S.) cow's milk, Alsace, France. This is not your typical deli muenster, far from it. This is a funky, stinky, creamy delight that tastes tremendous. Your friends will be impressed that you would even consider putting something that smells like that in your mouth. Do try it, though. It comes in a couple of different sizes, a large round that's often sliced for sale in wedges, and little rounds to be bought whole. A French customer told me it's common in France to dip little slices of munster into cumin seeds to enjoy it. Tangy, spicy and rich, this is a good after dinner cheese with fruit and a nice Alsatian white.

If you're still stuck on Brie and you have a little round of it that you want to bake en croute, here's an idea for you:

Bake Brie, Sharp Edge (Pittsburgh) Style

one small round of brie
couple tablespoons of raspberry jam
puff pastry, enough to wrap around the cheese
thinly sliced toasted almonds
honey for drizzling

Slice the brie horizontally to make two layers. Spread the jam over the bottom half and sandwich it with the top. Wrap the whole thing neatly with puff pastry and top with almonds. Bake on parchment paper in a moderate oven until the pastry is puffed and golden. Drizzle with honey and serve warm with crackers and some tasty beverage.

Smells Like a Curry Truck

You might be saying, "Enough with the quinoa already," but I'm telling you, it's good, it's quick, and it's healthy, so pardon me while I indulge. This recipe involves a lot of ingredients, but if you have picked up the basics, it should all be pretty handy, and you can certainly make up your own mix. If you're not into the whole spices, omit all of the spices and substitute maybe 1.5 T curry powder.

Indian Quinoa Pilaf

4 cloves garlic, crushed

** 1" fresh ginger, minced, or 1/2 tsp ginger powder

** 1 tsp cumin seeds

** 1 tsp coriander seeds

** 1/4 tsp turmeric

** 1 bay leaf

** 3 whole dried chiles

** 1/4 tsp fresh ground nutmeg

** 1/2 tsp amchoor powder (or 1 T lemon juice)

2 T vegetable oil
* 5 green cardamom pods, cracked
* 1 2" cinnamon stick
* 5 cloves
* 1/2 tsp peppercorns
* 1/2 tsp black mustard seeds
* 1 tsp fennel seeds
* handful raw cashew halfs
1 medium red onion, very finely chopped
1 c quinoa
2 c water
1/2 tsp salt or more to taste
1 T butter (optional)
splash of heavy cream (optional)

Place the garlic and all of the (**) spices in a mortar and pestle or food processor and work into a rough paste. Set aside. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan or wok over medium heat. Add the (*) spices and cook until the mustard begins to pop and the cinnamon starts to unfurl. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown lightly. Add the spice paste and cook for another minute or two. Stir in the quinoa and water, bring to a boil, and reduce to a low simmer. Cook until the liquid is absorbed, about 15-20 minutes. Check the seasoning and salt to taste. Stir in the enriching butter and cream if you want, and serve.

Fond Summer Memories

This cold, gray weather has me thinking back to the steaming hot grilling days of summer. You might remember the glorious beer can chicken, juicy, golden, meltingly tender and deliciously smokey.





















I miss the grilled jerked pork tenderloin, irresistibly spiced with scallions and habañero peppers. Nothing I've ever had in a restaurant compares to the intensity of that fire. This is summertime fare at its spicy best.
















Towards the end of summer I made a delicious accompaniment to a spicy vindaloo dish that did a great job of taming the fire. I can't claim it as original, but I'll share this recipe from Indian Home Cooking anyway. I was fortunate to have fresh champagne grapes from the garden, but any kind will do. It's good for anytime of year with a spicy dish, especially Indian.
















Grape Raita

3 c plain yogurt
1 1/2 c seedless grapes, halved
1 tsp ground toasted cumin
2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper or paprika

for tempering oil:
3 T canola oil
2 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
salt to taste

Whisk the yogurt until smooth and add the grapes, cumin, sugar and cayenne (or paprika). Prepare the tempering oil by heating the canola in a skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard and cover as you cook for 1 or 2 minutes until the mustard pops. Add the fennel and cook for about 10 more seconds. Pour over the yogurt and chill well. Stir in the salt just before serving.

I can smell the grill smoke already.