Cheese of the Week No. 6

For anyone else who missed it, last week was Christine's birthday. If I could, I would send her a heaping bucketload of this week's cheese pick:

Endgame 2005 by Bobolink Dairy: raw cow's milk, New Jersey, USA. This is one of the most serious American cheeses I've had yet. Rich, raw, buttery, yet still a little crumbly, it packs a huge flavor punch. No, it doesn't taste like the New Jersey Turnpike. Hay, wild garlic, freshly cut grass, yogurt, it was all there, and the flavors keep developing even after you're done sampling it. It's unlikely that you'll find this exact cheese near you, but I encourage you to stop by any farmstands you see to sample the local offerings. There are some real gems out there.

How to Survive a Transit Strike

I joined the cattle herd into the city today on Day Two of the transit strike in New York. It's a pretty crazy sight to see seven million people coming up with creative ways to avoid the buses and trains. I tell you, though, all that walking in the cold gave me a craving for hot chocolate... with cognac! Take your usual hot chocolate (I like whole milk and chocolate syrup), and add a tablespoon of Hennesy or whatever cognac you have kickin' around the liquor cabinet. Stir it all up and enjoy the good life.

Cheese of the Week No. 5

I don't usually go far beyond "sweet" or "nutty" in my descriptions of cheese. Rarely do things like pasture and mushrooms make themselves apparent to me, but this week's pick is a different story.

Durrus: raw cow's milk, Ireland. This beautiful washed rind cheese from County Cork is distributed by Neal's Yard Dairy of England. The cheese is just over an inch thick and about 8" in diameter. The rind is a nice orange-tan and is speckled with salt crystals. It has a pungent, musty smell, but nothing too offensive. The inside, though, is amazing stuff. The golden paste is soft, but not spreadable, and has a sprinkling of small holes. I tasted hops and grass at first, then walnuts and mushrooms, and it has a tangy finish that lingers. This is one of my new favorites.

Coffee as Art

A perfectly made espresso is a work of art. Delicate crema floating on a rich, silky bed of the very essence of the world's finest coffee beans; a fleeting balance that exists for mere seconds before being shattered in the daily breakfast ritual of millions.

Far less popular, though no less beautiful, is the Greek or Turkish coffee. By necessity made with loving care and patience, this beverage must be allowed time to form three distinct layers of its own: the prized foam on top, the rich essence of coffee in the middle, and the spent grounds settled on the bottom of the cup. Rather than being filtered, the coffee is finely ground into a powder and added to the briki, a slender copper pot that sits directly over the flame. Sugar is added to taste along with the water, and the mixture is brought to a frothy boil until it almost spills over. Once poured into the cups, it is allowed to rest a minute, and then it is enjoyed, slowly, with a sweet pastry and good conversation.

5 Minute Meals

Rice is great - it's nutritious, filling and, with so many varieties, there's one for every cuisine you can sauce it with. No wonder it's the most popular grain in the world. But you have to admit, some days you don't want to wait 20 minutes while it cooks, and that's where couscous comes in so handy. This tiny little pasta goes great with just about any sauce or seasoning you can throw at it, and it cooks up in five minutes.

This dish came together with a bunch of leftovers and a handful of spices. It's based on arroz con pollo from Cuba.

Couscous con Pollo

1/2 c water
3/4 c dry white wine
pinch of saffron (about 10 threads), optional but excellent
1 T extra virgin olive oil
1 boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut in 3/4" dice
1 shallot, finely diced
1 small tomato, seeded and finely diced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 handful Italian parsley
1/2 tsp thyme
a good grinding of pepper
a couple shakes of cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/4 c couscous

In a small saucepan, bring the water, wine and saffron to a boil. Turn off the heat and let it steep while you cook the chicken. Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the oil, then the chicken, and cook until well browned. Add the shallot and tomato and cook, stirring often, until the shallot softens a little. Add the garlic and cook two more minutes. Add the herbs and seasonings and stir well. Add the wine mixture, stir together, and then stir in the couscous. Turn off the heat, cover the pan, and let it stand five minutes. Stir and serve. Makes about four servings.