Smells Like a Pig Farm

I was going to save this one for a food challenge with Danger Mike and Melissa, but I couldn't resist shopping in Brooklyn's Chinatown on what was, quite possibly, the most beautiful day of the year. I was anxious to find durian, which is just now coming into season and is starting to appear in Asian produce markets.

Durian, if you've never been introduced, is a fruit from southeast Asia roughly pineapple sized or a little larger, slightly plum shaped, and armed with spikes over its entire surface. Many people die each year from having one of these bad boys falling on their heads. The first thing anyone will say about it, though, is that it is one of the most foul-smelling foods in the world. I've seen it described as "eating custard in a sewer." So what's the attraction? Let's dig in.

I consulted with Andy the sushi guy on how to attack this beast of a fruit. No problem, he said. Just cut along the seam with a sharp knife and scoop out the good stuff. It really was that simple, and taking some care not to bloody myself with either the spikes or the knife, I unlocked the secret to this legendary treat. Six compartments inside contained the creamy custard-like flesh surrounding two or three brown seeds. The texture is really like pudding meets mango, creamy and a little stringy. And so far, I was not knocked off of my feet by the smell. Yes, it was a little pungent, but I think my olde tyme root beer was a little more rank.

The only problem is that the smell doesn't go away, and it gets stronger the longer the fruit is open to the air. It's not a smell you can become used to, either, and before long, you're convinced that a naughty pig has defecated in the corner of your kitchen and is dragging his dirty behind across the floor. This is why Andy said the flesh should be kept in the freezer, which advice I promptly heeded.

More to come with this amazing treat. The taste is of vanilla pudding and much more. I went to a Vietnamese sandwich shop yesterday that serves up a durian shake. This will be my breakfast tomorrow.

Ginger Tofu Soup

The ginger binge continues with this soup that I recreated the other night. This is the soup that the sushi guy makes for us at work occasionally. He does it all quietly and on the sly, using ingredients "borrowed" from other departments, until the aromas of frying onions and ginger start wafting out of his rice cooker and into the store. Ginger is not sneaky.

Andy's Tofu Soup

3 T olive oil
1 small red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
1 or 2 inches of fresh ginger root, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced or minced (optional)
1 quart good stock (chicken or vegetable) or bouillon in a pinch
1 quart water
2 handfuls peeled, deveined large shrimp, sliced (optional)
1/2 pound diced ham (optional)
1 block firm tofu, cut into 1/2" dice
4 scallions, finely sliced
soy sauce, pepper and cayenne to taste
1/4 c corn starch dissolved in 1/2 c water

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large pot. Add the onions and saute until they are softened a bit. Add the ginger and continue cooking until the onions start to brown. Add the garlic and toss about for a minute. Pour in the stock and water and bring to a simmer. If the shrimp are raw, add them first and cook for a little while. Otherwise, add the shrimp, ham and tofu and bring to the simmer again. Add the scallions, season to taste, and stir in the corn starch to thicken the soup nicely. Feeds many.